Tutorial: Full Face Highlighting

Here's to hoping this fills the last gap of my face tutorials (for a complete list of tutorials I've written, see here). I've mentioned time and time again that contouring/highlighting is my favorite thing about makeup, so it's about time I showed you how I do it.

Highlighting is the natural complement to contouring. If contouring is about making shadows, highlighting is about creating light. Using both hand in hand makes for sharper features.

Here, a ridiculous photo of me with all the highlighted spots:

In list form:

1. Along the browbone/above the arch
2. Along the center of the nose
3. Under eyes/above the cheekbones
4. Smile lines
5. Cupid's bow

Before

After

Highlighting provides soft focus on certain areas of my face and diffusion on needed areas. My brows look more defined, nose taller, lips fuller, cheekbones sharper, and smile lines a little less obvious. The effect is subtle, some might even say unneeded, but I personally would rather do with than without.

You can use any highlighter you have on hand. My current favorite featured in this post is Dior's Airflash Primer, which isn't technically a highlighter (more like an illuminating primer), but works for me. Some others I like are Guerlain Meteorites, NARS Luxor, and LMdB Whisper. As you can probably tell, I prefer highlighters that are more opal/white/pink-toned as opposed to yellow ones, just because it works better for my skintone.

While highlighting is not something you'll ever need, if you're in a pinch and want a similar effect, I've gotten results using my concealer. It doesn't have the light reflecting qualities that highlighters do, but since my concealer is sometimes just slightly lighter than my skintone, it does the trick.

Reads of the Week, 7.15.12

For many reasons, this week was a doozy. The only thing that salvaged it was a successful photography session, and nothing helps blogging more so than that.

Here are some posts that caught my eye this week:

Dain deconstructs the effect of neutrals at Ars Aromatica.

Sabrina wrote the Burberry Blush post to end all Burberry Blush posts at The Beauty Look Book. I own five of these things and still think it's not enough.

Tracy smacks down on her one Tom Ford Blush at Beauty Reflections. Something about socks being firmly in place.

Liz of Beauty Reductionista compares an actual robin's egg to nail polish in her existing stash.

Best Things in Beauty is undecided over Ellis Faas Green Gold.

I've always loved British Beauty Blogger for her juicy insider stories. This week she rants about goodie bag blaggers.

Amy makes me more and more jealous of her with every Paris update on Cafe Makeup.

Another NUXE Reve de Miel lip balm rave from Dani at Call It Beauty. If I didn't already have at least six lip balms in front of me right now, I'd get it in a flash.

It's a good week for blushes. Delicate Hummingbird reviews Beauty is Life Blush Palettes (over 80 photos involved).

Arianne the Glitter Geek goes from straight to wavy hair and tells us how. Does this mean I need a flat iron, stat?

Gaia shares her personal perfumery traits on The Non-Blonde.

There are flowers on Rae's face!

The Ultimate Makeup gives us swatches of the Chanel Fleur de Lotus collection (available exclusively during Nordstrom's Anniversary Sale) and I'm sure I need that blush.

I hope to visit this monastery turned spa hotel one day. [via Vogue.com]

DHC Deep Cleansing Oil

We haven't gone in-depth with my skincare practices, which considering my own routine, should really be a greater part of Messy Wands. I was a skincare junkie way before I was ever exposed to makeup – my mother (and well, the policies of Malaysian high schools) forbade me from wearing makeup till I was 18 years old, but like most Asian women she is very particular about skincare, thus I was too.

I think even as a teen I had expensive tastes (unfortunate but true). My mother first gave me some Clinique, but the toner burned my skin and the moisturizer felt clammy. After experimenting with miscellaneous brands, we stopped by Shu Uemura, and that was where I had my first skincare routine designed.

That story promises to be a long one (think cleansing, toner, serum, moisturizer), so we won't delve into that just yet. The point is Shu Uemura is famous for their oil cleansers, thus I have been using the oil cleansing method to clean my face since as long as I can remember. After I started using makeup, they became absolutely indispensable.

For those unfamiliar with the oil cleansing method, here's how it's done:

1. Start with dry hands and face. This is very important because the water emulsifies the oil to remove makeup, and you don't want it to happen before you have the chance to get the oil on your skin.
2. Pump enough of the cleansing oil (usually two pumps for me) into your hands and apply to the face. Rub gently to work the oil onto the skin. Concentrate on needed areas, such as eyes and lips.
3. Wash off the oil on your hands.
4. With just wet hands (not cupping water), gently rub your face in circular motions. You'll notice the oil will turn white as it emulsifies.
5. When all of the cleansing oil has emulsified, wash face as usual.

The trick is using enough of the cleansing oil to cover the entire surface of your face. If you use too little, the method will be less effective and leave some residue, which feels... oily. The oil cleansing method is by far the cleanest and easiest method I've used to remove makeup, bar none.

I was sent the DHC Deep Cleansing Oil to review, and I'm glad to report that I liked it. The oil is lighter in texture than most Shu Uemura Cleansing Oils and as far as my nose can discern, has no fragrance. Two pumps is enough for my entire face and it removes my makeup without fail every time. I did find that my face was particularly dry when I started using it (transitioning from the RMK Cleansing Balm), but after a couple of uses I no longer felt the tightness.

It is much more affordable than just about everything I feature on Messy Wands, and because it's so (or relatively) cheap and effective, I also use it to get rid of arm swatches. It's easier and better than using cotton and makeup remover because I don't have to scrub as hard and leave red marks on my arm, which delays photographing. In short: a beauty blogger's godsend.

Ingredients:

(click to enlarge)

DHC Deep Cleansing Oil is available in various sizes from $4.95 to $26 at DHCcare.com. For another in-depth review, check out Nouveau Cheap's post.

The product in this post was sent to me by a representive of the brand for editorial consideration.

Blushing with Chanel: Brume d'Or & Rose Initiale

Chanel Brume d'Or

Chanel Rose Initiale

Some time last year, I started being very discerning with my Chanel purchases. It was when the Ombres Tissees highlighter was released and I eagerly bought most of that collection, trusting that Chanel wouldn't do me wrong, and of course I hated every single thing I purchased.

Since then I've been really hard on Chanel releases. I realized purchasing Chanel was actually more about the name than the actual items (because I was frequently paying $95 for just an okay highlighter) and my priority has always been (okay okay, has shifted to) quality rather than packaging.

L-R: Chanel Rose Initiate, Tarte Exposed, Chanel Brume d'Or

Chanel Brume d'Or

I consider it a success that when the Bombay Express de Chanel collection hit the online store, I was only attracted to Brume d'Or and not the fancy highlighter. In the pan the blush is a scary looking brown, but when applied it draws the rose tones out from the skin to a very flattering summer flush. I really don't know why I love this so much, but I do.

Chanel Rose Initiale

As for Rose Initiale from the fall collection, it's a slightly cool-leaning pink blush that is light enough to go very well with the smokey looks we'll definitely be sporting come fall.

I've always had a soft spot for Chanel blushes. The line is filled with finely milled, universal shades, and it's the one thing that's never let me down. All Chanel blushes feature a strong fragrance that dissipates after application.

For some reason the ingredients in both blushes differ. I suspect because Brume d'Or features the baked (Euro) version whereas Rose Initiale is the regular US version of the blush:

Brumes d'Or (click to enlarge)

Rose Initiale (click to enlarge)

Chanel Brume d'Or and Rose Initiale retails for $43. The Bombay Express de Chanel collection is only available online and in boutiques, while the fall collection should be available at Chanel counters everywhere.

Giorgio Armani Eyes To Kill Intense Eye Shadow 24

ETK Intense 24, Waterproof Smooth Silk Eye Pencil 1

Lips: Chanel Troublant; Cheeks: Chanel Rose Initiale

I think the entire beauty industry's love of Giorgio Armani Eyes To Kill Intense Eye Shadows is already well documented, but if you're new: hybrid formula, best pigmentation ever, most long lasting thing you can put on your eyes. The last time I wrote about it I moaned a little about not being able to use a brush with it, but it turns out I just needed the right brush (Shu Uemura 10 kolinsky/sable). That said, you have to work fast because once the eyeshadow dries, it won't budge.

My love for this wouldn't be a problem if not for the beauty-blogger-on-a-strict-no-dupe dilemma, i.e. I think I have something kinda similar and if so can I still keep it? Pretty please?

L-R: Giorgio Armani Eyes To Kill Intense 15 & 24

L-R: Giorgio Armani Eyes To Kill Intense 15 & 24

Taken a year ago: ETK Intense 15; Lips: My Fav Nude Lip Combo

ETK Intense 24

Close but no cigar? It's definitely less gold and more taupe, but the finish is similar. Do you think it's different enough for me to keep? Or should I try ETK Intense 25 instead?

Giorgio Armani Eyes To Kill Intense Eye Shadow 24 retails for $32 and is available at giorgioarmanibeauty-usa.com or nordstrom.com.

Chanel Fall 2012: Rouge Allure Extrait de Gloss 68 Troublant

The next few weeks promises to be a confusing time on Messy Wands. Fall collections are in (yay!) but the weather and I are remaining resolutely summery, so do expect vacillating coverage between both seasons. 

Chanel Troublant

L-R: Dior Addict Wild, Chanel Troublant

In my sneak peek to Chanel Fall, I described Rouge Allure Extrait de Gloss 68 Troublant as My Lips in Fall and my personal must have. Now that I've had time to play with it for a few days, I still agree, though I wish the microshimmer we see in the swatch is more prominent on the lips. Troublant is a very grown-up gloss in that I feel like my mother wouldn't be opposed to wearing it, and I say this in the best possible way.

Cheeks: Chanel Rose Initiale; Eyes: Giorgio Armani Eyes To Kill Intense 24

The color is a plum rose (I guess it's not as brown as I previously thought) and such an easy shade to pair with fall makeup. The only deterrent I can think of is that it's just slightly sticky (and when I say that I compare it to LMdB lip stuff, not say, MAC Lipglasses), but it makes the gloss last on and on – I took a nap with it on the first day and when I woke up it's still there. That said, if you're limited to only one thing from Chanel's fall collection, I do think Troublant should be it.

Ingredient list for those who need it:

(click to enlarge)

Chanel Rouge Allure Extrait de Gloss 68 Troublant retails for $32 and should be available at all counters. I purchased mine from Chanel.com.

Messy Wands Turns One

2011

2012

A year ago my eyebrows looked like bat wings (and man, was I tanned).

Today, I cringe at my year-ago eyebrows and think mine look so much better now, but I bet next year we're going to have the same conversation about how ill drawn they were. 

I look forward to it.