The Epic Brush Post, Part II: Cheek Brushes

This is part two of my ongoing brush series. The first can be found here.

The misconception I mentioned in my face brush post seems to be most commonly applied to cheek brushes. Generally, the softer a brush is, the more pliable it becomes, but since blush application should be targeted, anything too pliable causes loss of control. The thing is, I'm not necessarily sacrificing softness for firmer bristles. Everything I own feels really good on the skin. 

L-R: Hakuhodo 210 Blush Brush, LMdB Cheek Brush, Shu Uemura 20H

The Hakuhodo 210 is a cheek brush with a rounded head perfect for contouring. Its bristles are firm (but not bristly!) and it does a great job of maintaining its shape, which is crucial when what you need is extremely targeted application.

I have five other blush brushes, but each plays its own role in my collection. The Le Métier de Beauté Cheek Brush and Shu Uemura 20 are work horses. They are the ones I'll bring on travels if I could only have one cheek brush. They feature the standard shape (LMdB's is wider, Shu's more tapered) and work with a large variety of textures. I would repurchase both in a heartbeat if I ever lost either.

The Shu Uemura 20H is known as a contouring brush, but I don't really use it for that purpose. To me, it lacks the firmness and density to produce a proper contour. That said, if you want an all-purpose cheek brush, this is it. I like it because something about the shape makes applying blush really, really easy.

L-R: Shu Uemura 20, Yojiya Cheek Brush, Suqqu Cheek Brush

The Yojiya Cheek Brush is one of my softest cheek brushes. I use it for particularly pigmented blushes because it blends them out most effectively.

I'd say the only "dud" I have in here is the Suqqu Cheek Brush. The brush head is too small and feels too soft to be functional as a cheek brush for me, but I couldn't part from it because like its face counterpart, it is so soft. I usually use it with finishing powder to set my makeup.

The Hakuhodo 210 Blush Brush ($36) can be found at hakuhodousa.com, Le Métier de Beauté Cheek Brush ($55) at any Neiman Marcus store, nordstrom.com or zuneta.com, Shu Uemura 20 and 20H (both $50) at shuuemura-usa.com, and Suqqu Cheek Brush at ichibankao.com (though highly marked up). Yojiya products are only available in Kyoto and select airports in Japan.

The Epic Brush Post, Part I: Face Brushes

I remarked on Twitter some time ago that I've reached Brush Nirvana. I have not pined for a new makeup brush since my last acquisition months ago, so I suppose my collection is more or less perfect (for now). Many have tweeted and emailed me asking about the brushes I use and I have stalled my replies, explaining that a brush post is in the works – well, it took about half a year, but here it is. I decided to do it in installments because of the sheer amount of brushes I own (the picture below isn't even half of it). 

I am not showing you every single brush I have. The brushes you'll see are part of my "dream team," if you will. I love every single one of them, and even though I have six just under the cheek brush category, I promise none of them are true duplicates of each other. My brushes vary in shape, bristle length, softness, material, all of which influences how they perform and the effect they produce. That said, most people really only need one. I do realize I have a lot of brushes, but what can I say? They're actually the best part of makeup for me. 

I store the main bulk of my brushes in a Shu Uemura leather brush roll. I also own a couple of asoftblackstar's rolls in sizes small and large for traveling. When at home, I place some in various cups or pen holders for ease of access.

Lastly, before we begin, I should let you know that most of my opinions come from reading beauty blogs, talking to makeup artists, and experience with my own brushes (this includes acquisition of a lot of brushes I ended up hating). I am certainly not an expert when it comes to brushes, and I might be wrong about some things, but I hope this brush guide will save you a few mistakes as you navigate the treacherous path of amassing your own perfect kit. 

On to the brushes:

Top-bottom: RMK Face Brush, Suqqu Face Brush, LMdB Face Brush, LMdB Kabuki Brush

L-R: RMK Face Powder Brush, Suqqu Face Brush, LMdB Powder Brush, LMdB Kabuki Brush

The most popular misconception I've come across about brushes is soft = good. I find that a lot of people get carried away with how good the brush feels versus how it actually performs. What you need to remember is while soft is nice, not all of your brushes should be that way. 

My favorite face brushes are from RMK, Suqqu, and Le Métier de Beauté. The Suqqu one is pure indulgence as it is unbelievably soft. According to the listing on ichibankao.com, the brush is made of 100 percent superior gray squirrel hair. It is the most expensive brush I own, at a little under $200 (this is with no tax/shipping charges and 10 percent discount). 

Is it functional? Yes, but because it's so soft and pliable you won't be able to manage anything more than a light application. I use it for a light dusting of powder or when I want to apply a thin veil of bronzer on my face. Is it worth the money? Probably not. But this brush makes me feel so happy when I use it – in fact, sometimes I rub it against my face. Just because. 

The LMdB Powder Brush is a typical round powder brush made of 100 percent natural goat hair, while RMK's version is flatter and wider and made of a blend of gray squirrel and goat hair. Both are soft but firmer (it sounds like an oxymoron, but it really isn't) compared to the Suqqu, thus allowing for heavier application of powder.

The LMdB Kabuki Brush is a versatile creature. I put it under the "face brush" category due to its size, but I actually use if more often to apply cream blushes (it does so surprisingly well, and is so much easier to clean than a synthetic brush). The LMdB kabuki contains the firmest bristles out of the four and can be used for powder and blush alike. If I need to save space when traveling, I bring just this one brush. I've been told that it is virtually indestructible, and while I never want to test that claim, I've thrown it into various makeup bags and the shape always bounces back after a wash. 

RMK Face Powder Brush ($69.99) can be found at bonboncosmetics.com (though currently it's not listed). I purchased mine from a counter when I was in Malaysia. The Suqqu Face Brush ($200+) is only available to the US through ichibankao.com at a high markup, whereas the LMdB Powder ($65) and Kabuki Brush ($85) are available at neimanmarcus.com, nordstrom.com, or any Le Métier de Beauté counter nationwide. 

Full Contouring Tutorial

One of the earlier posts I wrote on Messy Wands was a mini contouring tutorial using NARS Multiples. I called it "mini" because it wasn't complete - I only demonstrated how to shade the cheeks, while contouring can involve the entire face. With summer quickly approaching, my makeup routine is now as simple as my clothing choices. I've been wearing less and less, and the contoured look is one of my stalwarts for something quick, easy, and effective. 

As I mentioned in said mini tutorial, contouring is about manipulating light (or what we perceive as light/shadow) to make your features more pronounced. We have in our makeup arsenal highlighters or luminizers that has light reflecting properties, or powders one shade lighter than your skin tone to give a similar effect, and bronzers to deepen your skin tone to mimic shadow. When used together, it gives dimension to an otherwise flat face (in my case quite literally, which is why I like to contour my nose).  

Below is a guide to how I contour my face, with the hope that it proves helpful to you.

Bare face, with shaded brows, CdP Concealer in Ochre and LMdB Peau Vierge #2

I shade according to the lines in the photo above: 

1. The area below the cheeks
2. The temples
3. The sides along the nose into the eyebrows
4. Along the jawline

L-R: bare face, contoured face

Contoured face

Contoured + blush

As for materials, you can use any texture you like, though I am partial to powders. There are dedicated contouring products out there (like the MAC Studio Sculpt line) but it is likely that you already have everything you need in your hands. You could use blushes or bronzers that are a couple shades darker than your skin tone – my personal favorite is Burberry Earthy.

Suqqu Balancing Eyebrow in Moss Green, Burberry Sheer Summer Glow Palette

For this particular post, I used Burberry Sheer Summer Glow Palette for most of my face, and the Suqqu Balancing Eyebrow palette for the contouring down the sides of the nose (I love that the palette has a dedicated shade just for that purpose!). To enhance the contours, I place highlighter down the center of the nose and the top of the cheekbones as well.

Top-Bottom: Suqqu Powder Brush, Hakuhodo 210 Blush Brush, Suqqu Eyeshadow Brush L

Hakuhodo 210 Blush Brush

Much of a good contouring experience lies in the brushes you use. It is important to blend the color into the skin while maintaining a defined line, so while your brushes should be soft (bonus points for comfort) it should also retain a firm shape. I've tried a few, such as Shu Uemura 20H (slanted cheek), Hakuhodo S103 (pointed blush brush), and the MAC 109 (rounded blush brush), which is similar to my HG, the Hakuhodo 210 Blush Brush. All are effective and depends on what you personally prefer. I like the rounded shape for the density and firmness, and prefer the Hakuhodo over the MAC due to the softness of the bristles. I also like to use the Suqqu Eyeshadow Brush L where precision is needed (like the sides of the nose).